The Type II U-boat was designed by Nazi Germany as a coastal U-boat, modeled after the CV-707 submarine, which was designed by the Dutch dummy company NV Ingenieurskantoor voor Scheepsbouw den Haag (I.v.S) (set up by Germany after World War I in order to maintain and develop German submarine technology and to circumvent the limitations set by the Treaty of Versailles) and built in 1933 by the Finnish Crichton-Vulcan shipyard in Turku, Finland. Its primary role was found to be in the training schools, preparing new German naval officers for command. It appeared in four sub-types.
This model was designed for fairly easy and straightforward assembly. You will notice, however, that the surface finish, upon very close inspection, will look “fat”. This is a result of the need to shell the original files in order to make them thick enough for printing. Unlike many of my other 3D submarine files, this one was not originally drafted by me, and it was not originally drawn for 3D printing or submarine hull creation. It was, however, just too darned cool to do nothing with, hence what you see here.
All that said, the parts print into a beautiful model. The side flood slots are particularly good and lend a lot to the realism of the model. The top deck hatch is a separate piece with detailed watertight door beneath. Torpedo tube doors are rendered behind the outer doors as well.
Very thin parts such as railings, the net cuttter supports and the rear rudder skeg support do not lend themselves to printing, and will need to be fabricated from brass rod or other material of your choice, depending on your application. Printed propellers should work just fine for practical operation, however you may want to consider purchasing proper brass propellers and using them if you will be making a functional model. The builder is responsible for fabricating a hold down system for the upper deck.
Making the model Remote Controlled:
I designed the model to accept a standard 2.5” diameter MSD SubDriver. Ideally, it will be a 2.5” unit with a 3” x 8” ballast tank. That being the case, the opening in the hull is just short of a 3” diameter tube to be inserted. You can do so, however, by gently spreading the hull and pressing the cylinder into place from the top. Alternatively, you can leave hull sections 6 and 7 unconnected and fabricate a hold down system there. This would allow for the entire rear of the sub to be removed and the cylinder to be installed from the rear rather than from the top. If sourcing your own cylinder, I estimate the upper hull to come in at just under 800g (approximately 28oz), which you will need to ensure your ballast tank volume can offset.Holes for the control surface shafts (dive planes, rudders, etc) are marked in the hull and will need to be drilled out to proper tolerance. I designed the parts to accept a 1/16” brass rod for their shafts. Main drive shafts for the propellers should be ⅛” brass rod. I will be creating a “starter kit” for this model that will include the vast majority of RC components needed to make this a functional model. Check out the “Starter Kit” section of my website for details and pricing.
Downloadable files include all STL files for printing as well as detailed blueprints. Rendered in 1/32 scale, but easily scaled to whatever you'd like to print!
Model assembled length: 1283mm (50.5")
Model asembled width: 128mm (5")
Estimated print time at 0.3mm resolution (highly dependent on your printer): 155hrs