the nautilus drydocks

What is an RC Submarine?

An RC sub is basically a surface ship that has the added ability to dive under the water and return to the surface again. These models may have static (ballast system) or dynamic (no ballast system) diving capabilities.

What's the point? You can't see them anyway.

Well, no. Not when they're under four feet of water. It's the challenge of diving a submarine and then bringing her back up safely that's the ultimate reward. There's also a sense of satisfaction watching the surface craft skippers on shore jump in surprise when your sub pops up just behind them, ready for a torpedo shot! When ballasted negatively (not recommended, but real fun), you can actually "park" your sub on the bottom and wait for unsuspecting prey to pass by.

What's the best place to get a sub for a beginner?

This is probably the number one question that I get! Its an exciting hobby, but it can be a daunting thing to get into. There is lots to learn, and "getting your feet wet" properly is important in order to eliminate the possibility of getting frustrated, losing a valuable submarine, or hurting yourself.

There are two main paths to get started: Buy it or Build it. Each has advantages and disadvantages. 

If you Buy your first boat, you get started quickly. It will be more expensive than building your boat, potentially MUCH more expensive, but provided you employ the services of a reputable builder, you'll get a good boat that will allow you to run in a potentially shorter period of time than if you built it yourself. 
If, however, you Build your first boat, you are going to have a massive advantage over just buying it. You'll actually know how it works! Buying a sub puts a complicated craft in your lap with no knowledge or information about how it works, how it's set up, or how it operates. By building your boat, you know exactly how it goes together, meaning that when (not if) something goes wrong, you have the skills needed to diagnose and repair it. 

How do they work?

Very basically, the static diving submarines will take on water to the point that they will easily dive under the water with a little bit of help from the control surfaces (dive planes). When surfacing, water is forced out of the ballast tank either by a pump or by compressed gas of some kind. Dynamic divers, on the other hand, are much simpler, using their dive planes to force them under the water. When speed drops, their buoyancy forces them to the surface. 

How does the signal go underwater?

Radio signals will penetrate water. Freshwater is the best for getting clear transmission to your model and there are many experienced sub drivers who have operated (properly constructed) submarine models in depths in excess of thirty feet. Once you start getting additions such as chlorine or salt in the water, you will see serious reduction to the maximum depth you will be able to control your model. When operating at the surface, the only limit is your radio system. Submarines can be operated in heavily chlorinated pools, or even in the ocean, but you depth will be limited to a few inches, at best. Operating any deeper will require an antenna addition, as you'll need to keep the antenna above the surface of the water in order to maintain control of your model.

How much do they cost?

Lots. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise. You can get pool toys that will let you piddle around in your backyard pool for a few hundred dollars, but a complete RTR RC Sub in a decent scale will set you back a good $1500 to start with. Sub hulls go for around $400 to $500US, and a complete WTC (water tight compartment) with full electronics suite might add another $700 to $1000. Tack on a decent radio, and your pretty close to $2000US. You can do better or worse for price depending on what you're looking for, but that's a pretty good idea of what they're worth.

How fast to they go?

I guess that depends on the model and the drive system, but a good average is a fast walking pace at full throttle. Modern nuclear subs are more hydrodynamic than older submarine designs such as WWII fleetboats, and are therefore typically faster, though they pay the price of typically having much poorer turning performance thanks to the placement and size of their control surfaces.

How deep do they go?

All they way to the bottom (all the RC sub sites say that, so I guess I might as well, too). My WTC should be good in excess of thirty feet or so, but I really do not want to go that deep. In practical terms, you should only go as deep as you can see, typically less than five feet, and that's plenty enough water to get into trouble with. Radio signals penetrate a lot of fresh water, but things like chlorine and salt water significantly reduce your radio range.

What are they made of?

Blood, sweat, and tears mostly. Hulls are generally made of fibreglass or GRP (glass reinforced plastic). High end hulls are manufactured with epoxy. Some smaller hulls are made from vacuum forrmed plastic. WTC (water tight compartments) are typically made from clear lexan so that the owner can easily check for leaks. Acrylic tubing works, but you need to be aware that it is very prone to cracking at the edges.

What about 3d printing?

Yes, absolutely! I offer a huge selection of exceptionally high quality 3D files that are designed for RC operation. Print in ABS, ASA or PETG for best results. This is a good way to get a hull at a cheaper price than fiberglass, but be aware that details are typically not as good as fiberglass hulls, and a lot of post-processing is typically needed to get rid of striations and seam lines. People looking for the "easy button" to 3D print cylinders are in for a rude awakening. There is a lot more to them than just hitting 'print' will allow for.

How do I get one?

There are two options: build it or buy it. Building is cheaper (though not by much), but is infinitely more time-consuming and you're end product will generally not be as high quality as the suppliers can put out. My first Disney Nautilus project kept me busy for many years, and after a while it gets a bit frustrating. If I could do it all again, I'd buy my first kit, and then worry about building the next project while I can enjoy the first in the interim. But that's just my opinion.  

What about missiles and torpedoes?

You betcha! Both have been done before by many talented modelers. Dave Merriman of D&E Miniatures has actually built a six tube torpedo launcher for his 1:72 scale Alfa submarine! Most of these weapons systems are powered by compressed gas. Be aware that firing weapons are inherently dangerous. Proceed at your own risk. Check out a great article on Dave's torpedo system in 1:72 scale here. 

What kind of radio do I need?

Submarines with a ballast system require a minimum of four channels (throttle, dive planes, rudder, ballast). Historically, builders used radios on 75Mhz (North America) or 40mhz (Europe). Airplane frequencies technically work, but if you mess up someone's model airplane while running your sub, get ready for some unhappiness from the owner and from the government if they catch you. Unfortunately, these low frequency radios are no longer in production, so finding one will mean hunting eBay or begging off of friends for old radios. Fortunately, we've proven out that 900mhz radios properly set up work amazingly well. You can also run 2.4ghz, but you'll need to run an external antenna and keep it above the surface while running.

In terms of channels, a basic boat needs 4 (throttle, rudder, dive planes and ballast). Ideally you'll have six, which would add separate forward dive planes and give you one extra for things like retracting forward dive planes, torpedoes, periscopes, or other features.

What kind of extra features can you add?

Anything that you can dream of, build or buy. Missiles, torpedoes, lighting, periscopes, working hatches, sound effects, diesel smoke (for WWII diesel-electrics, of course), bow thrusters, and much more. Just make sure that you have enough channels on your radio and space in your hull for all the goodies. Save room for working video and sound, and a new fish-finder on the market actually lets you add sonar to your model with the display sent back to you on shore!

What happens if it doesn't come back up again?

Be sure that you have a failsafe system installed that will automatically blow ballast if you lose radio signal. The 900mhz radios I offer have this feature built into them. There are also standalone failsafe modules that will blow ballast or release a buoy upon loss of signal.

If it still doesn't come back up... You cry. You curse. You pray. Then, you get wet. Your sub is probably mired in the mud or hung up on some weeds. Take a set of swim trunks and a mask to the pond with you in case something like this happens. When she doesn't come up, sight some landmarks or throw a marker where you last saw it. Then head out to sea and hope for the best.